I take it all back. The uphill we have done so far is minimal compared to the uphill to Rabanal. (To be fair, it is still less than most of the uphills on El Camino)
That being said, we are now in the phase of “Multiple Days on El Camino”, so we’re no longer as fresh as Day 1. On the upside, certain patterns and routines are emerging. We take cafe con leche at basically every stop and are constantly snacking. We are starting to recognize other hikers and pilgrims and know some of their stories. We look for all the taps with potable water and start resting in the shade more. (I charge my phone/camera every time we get to a cafe)
It’s Sunday (I think), so we see many churchgoers, including some who process around the town (complete with fife, drums and tambourines and 2 men dressed in clothing that would easily pass for San Francisco hip.
Hostels and hotels are not albergues, based on both the prices and the funny looks people give us when we trudge in with our backpacks.
The albergue we stay at in Camino de Rabanal has tea at 5pm and the church next door (stone, historic) has a pilgrim’s blessing at 9:30, after which we go to sleep.